Silver Oak Cellars

The first Saturday of February, 9 a.m., mark your calendar, any year. That's the annual Release Day at Silver Oak Cellars for their Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. While you're at it, you may as well circle the first Saturday of August because that's Release Day for their Alexander Valley Cabs.

Silver Oak Cellars is a premium winery specializing in one thing and one thing only, Cabernet Sauvignon, in particular palate-pleasing, complex, powerful yet profound Cabs with longevity. Release day for Silver Oak is an event drawing several thousand diehard fans wanting to line up for a few hours for the chance to purchase a maximum of six bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon at $100 a pop for the Napa Valley and $60 for the Alexander Valley. It's a party atmosphere with live music and hor d'oeuvres for the nibbling while you wait in line or meander about. Tastings are $20 but hey, you get a glass with Silver Oak's trademark pump house tower etched on it.

Nineteen seventy-two was a good year. That's when entrepreneur Ray Duncan formed a partnership with Justin Meyer to create a winery with the sole purpose of making the finest Cabernet Sauvignon—no Chardonnay, not a drop of Pinot Noir, nary a thought of Syrah, and absolutely zero molecules of White Zinfandel. It was one winery, one wine, all Cab. The two founders came together with a purpose, to make a Cabernet Sauvignon with a sense of itself, a fully developed red that could be savored not only after many years of aging but was soft and supple from the get-go.

Justin Meyer has been an important figure in Napa Valley and one of its wine visionaries. His beginnings were as a Brother at Napa Valley's Christian Brothers, learning his craft as assistant winemaker to the legendary Brother Timothy. Then armed with Enology and Viticulture degrees from UC-Davis, Meyer left the brotherhood to pursue a new calling, to create his vision of Cabernet Sauvignon at Silver Oak with Duncan. Meyer was the mastermind behind Silver Oak's mission.

Nothing is permanent is a banal statement, but relentlessly true. In 2001, Justin Meyer sold his partner shares to Ray Duncan, recruited Daniel Meyer as winemaker, and departed. He continued consulting to Silver Oak but, to get back to the concept of impermanence, Justin Meyer passed away on August 2, 2002. His legacy continues however at Meyer Family Cellars near Boonville, California, where his family carries his legacy producing a Zinfandel Port and Syrah.

To understand Silver Oak, a person needs to understand Ray Duncan's and Justin Meyer's philosophy behind the wine. The premise for their Cab was to use the best grapes from the best California appellations, age it up to five years, first in American oak barrels for 24 to 30 months, and then bottle and cellar it for another 18 months. The resulting Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon would be a complex, balanced, and silky smooth red with nuance and depth.

Furthermore, it would be this way upon release and not require further cellaring to soften the tannins or to bring the clam out of its shell. Naturally, patient aging would only enhance the wine. Oak is an important factor in Silver Oak production as well, so much so that the winery owns its own white oak forest in Missouri to make its barrels. American oak is not always favored by producers, giving off a slighter sweeter character or more lavender notes than French oak, but it also doesn't project as much tannin, which fits Silver Oak's design.

Silver Oak's winery in Alexander Valley was acquired from Lyeth Winery near Geyserville in Sonoma County in 1993. Silver Oak has limited vineyard property in Napa Valley, and they traditionally have purchased their grapes from other growers. The Alexander Valley property increased their acreage and this winery produces almost double the volume of the Napa Valley estate. As a simplistic comparison of the two, the Alexander Valley Cab will be generally softer and fruitier than the heftier Napa Valley Cab. The Alexander Valley Cabs should age from 10 to 15 years whereas the Napa Valley Silver Oak should age up to 20 years.

The Alexander Valley is 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with grapes from several vineyards. As for the Napa Valley Silver Oak, starting in 1994, the winery began blending other varietals to create for of a traditional Bordeaux-style wine. While dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, small percentages of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot are added for complexity and roundness.

It would erroneous to think that Silver Oak has fallen into complacency. Ray Duncan and the winery are going strong, expanding, and maximizing on Silver Oak's capacity and expertise. Perhaps some of the Silver Oak mystique has dulled over the last several years, but that is primarily with a few critics who don't line up for their six-bottle allocation in February.

In 1999 Ray Duncan acquired the 150-acre Soda Canyon Ranch in Napa Valley, south of Stags Leap, to create Twomey Cellars. Together with winemaker Daniel Baron, they follow the one winery, one wine principle and produce a single Merlot reflecting the Pomerol and St. Emilion way.

The 2002 vintage Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon will be released on February 3, 2007. See you in line at 9 a.m. I'll be at the Napa Valley estate, but you can also go to the Alexander Valley one if that's more convenient. Dress warm, a sweater is a good idea with a smile for an accessory.

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