Riesling
From LoveToKnow Wine
Riesling can create exquisite wines. It is considered the finest white grape in the world, and yet at the sight of the tall, tapering bottle, many wine drinkers politely decline in favor of something else. There are two myths we need to debunk that will have you opting for this lovely wine in no time.
Myth # 1: All Rieslings are sweet. When you think of Riesling, chances are you think about Germany. Sixty percent of the wine exported from Germany is Liebfraumilch, a sweet, mass-produced wine. Because it is the most well-known of the grapes allowed in Liebfraumilch, it developed a reputation for being sweet and simple, even though the inferior grape Muller-Thurgau generally dominates the blend. Actually, most quality Rieslings are somewhere between dry and slightly sweet.
Myth #2: Any wine with the word ‘Riesling’ in the name is the real thing. There is a saying that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. The wine has many imposters, including Clare Riesling, Welschriesling, and Laski Riesling, grapes with no ancestral claim to the noble grape Riesling. It does have a few legitimate aliases, though, including Rhine, White, and Johannisberg Riesling. Rest assured that some of the ho-hum “Riesling” you’ve had was really nothing of the sort.
Describing Riesling Wine
First things first: to describe it, you need to pronounce it correctly (reece-ling). Now, the hallmark behind any quality Riesling is acidity. Acid is the backbone, the crispness that makes it so delightful with food. You detect acidity along the sides of your tongue, and it is the acidity in wine that makes your mouth water. Acidity is also the element of the wine that is absolutely necessary if the wine has any residual sugar, or sweetness. Sweetness in wine without adequate acidity makes the wine taste out of balance, like a too-sweet fruit soda; the tasting term for sweet wine without enough acidity is cloying. When analyzing a Riesling, you are measuring both the acidity and the sweetness, and you are checking to see if they are in balance.
The flavor profile for Riesling varies, depending on the climate and soil on which it is grown. The grape thrives in cool to cold climates, like Germany and Alsace, France. In these cooler climates, it has subtle aromas and flavors, often lemon, green apple, and floral notes. It also demonstrates a strong sense of minerality, often described as “steely” or petroleum. Petroleum is not a negative description here, just an identifying one.
Grown in moderate climates, like Australia, New Zealand, and the United States, Riesling ripens a bit more and has fuller, richer flavors, including peach, apricot, tangerine, melon, and honeysuckle. Ripe fruit is in charge here; minerality and subtlety take the back seat.
Finally, the alcohol content of Riesling is an anomaly in the wine world: it is low, often 7-11 percent, compared to Chardonnay, which ranges between 12-14 percent. Low alcohol is very appealing and makes Riesling an agreeable aperitif.
Around the World
To discuss Riesling is to tip one’s hat to Germany, whose Rieslings are considered the greatest in the world. Though the labels of German wines contain a lot of rather confusing information, there are a few labeling terms you should be aware of. The terms Kabinett,Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese represent a scale of ripeness in Germany.
- The first grapes of the vintage to be picked will be made into Kabinett wine, which is typically a light-bodied, dry wine with low alcohol.
- Spatlese means “late harvest,” which essentially means they are grapes picked after the Kabinett harvest. These wines, which have a slightly higher sugar content because of their late picking, are richer in style and range from dry to slightly sweet.
- Auslese wines are richer still, made from very ripe grapes, while Beerenauslese (BA) and Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) wines are the richest and rarest of all. Made in exceptional vintages, BA and TBA wines are quite expensive and have a sweet, honeyed flavor. As you can see, vintners in Germany pick grapes throughout the fall, gambling with the weather for the ripest grapes before the cold weather hits.
Riesling is also grown, with much success, in Austria, Alsace, the United States (particularly California and Washington), Australia, and New Zealand.
Drinking Riesling with Food
Because of its higher acidity and moderate alcohol, Riesling is a great choice for drinking with food. It can accommodate a wide range of foods, from spicy Asian and Latin dishes to salty or smoked foods, like ham or salmon. It is also spectacular with foods that feature fruit, like fruit salad or a meat dish with a fruit sauce. Consider serving the wine as an aperitif or with light appetizers, as its light body and refreshing acidity make it perfect for the beginning of a meal. Finally, if you are outdoors in the late afternoon in summertime and your guests are thirsty, for goodness sake, open a bottle of Riesling! It is the perfect refreshment. See also Food and Wine Pairing.
Taste to Learn
To learn more about the styles and flavor profiles of this wine, organize a tasting of three Rieslings and try them side by side. Consult with your local wine store about reputable producers, and buy a German Riesling (of Spatlese or Auslese ripeness), a drier Alsace variety, and a riper, fruiter New World Riesling (from Washington, California, or Australia). Notice the minerality, subtlety, ripeness, acidity, sweetness/richness, alcohol, and fruit of each one.
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