Organic Wine

Organic Wine is One Ball of Confusion

Organic as a concept applied to wine can be vexing proposition to sort out. It can separated into two elements—organic viticulture and organic wine production. One part entails producing the grape while the second involves the making of wine. If you want to avoid a headache or don't want to get muddied in a bottomless bog of perplexing bureaucratic definitions and regulations, stop reading here. However, if you are stubborn and insistent, read on, but keep the aspirin handy. Suggestion, if you get dizzy it is recommended that you read this with a glass of Oregon Pinot Noir to help put things in perspective.

Organic Grapes

Any prospect for producing a glass of organic wine starts in the vineyards. As a concept or a philosophy, food is organic when produced in an environment that uses renewable natural resources and seeks to conserve soil and water. Grapes, and other organic foods, are grown without the use of synthetic pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers made from chemicals, sewage, bioengineering, or unnatural means. Natural predators are used to control pests; cover crops are grown among the vines and then plowed under to organically enrich the soil. The ecological objective is to conserve and enhance the environment's natural quality for future generations. And coincidentally, removing inorganic chemicals and mutant genes from your diet may also enhance your living quality and enhance prospects for your future generations. Enough proselytizing. Suffice to say that farmers who take on the organic viticulture challenge are earnest stewards intent on preserving their natural living biosystems.

Certification

United States' standards for growing organic food products are determined and regulated by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) as designated in the Organic Foods Production Act of 1990. Therefore growing organic grapes falls under their auspices. Certified organic grapes will have been grown in vineyards without the use of synthetic chemicals for a minimum period of three years. This stipulation also includes the addition of sulfites. A separate issue is applying the organic concept applies to the handling and production process of wine as well. Remember this seemingly innocuous proviso; it helps make the organic wine ball of confusion move like a knuckleball.

Organic Wine Classfications

Enter the National Organic Program (NOP) under the USDA. The NOP classifies four categories that are intended to clarify and simplify the concept of organic for consumers. These classifications are: 100% Organic, Organic, Made with Organic Grapes, and Made with Organic Ingredients.

100% Organic Wine

This is the ultimate designation for organic wine and is indicated with a USDA seal on the bottle that means 100% organic certified grapes are used in the wine. This means no sulfites, nitrates, or nitrites or other non-organic ingredients have been added to produce the wine. Wines that qualify are allowed to claim the 100% Organic Wine classification but must also indicate the certifying agent's name. Keep in mind that sulfites are a naturally occurring ingredient in wine, infiltrating via the grape's skin; if the level rises above 20 ppm, then the USDA's 100% Organic label cannot be used.

Just Plain Organic

All hope is not lost if it's not 100% organic. If 95% of the wine is from organic grapes, the winemaker can put an Organic label on the bottle. The other 5% can include non-organic material not commercially produced as well as yeast. The no sulfite added and certifying agency label rules still apply. This category still qualifies for a USDA seal.

Made with Organic Grapes

This is the last bastion for organic wine, and it does not qualify for a USDA seal. At least 70% of the grapes used must be organic, with the remaining 30% again being non-organic material not available as organic. In some cases sulfites may be added but should be indicated as an ingredient with the wine containing no more than 100 ppm. The ingredients must be indicated when organic labeling is used. The certifying agency and address can listed as well as their seal but without the USDA seal.

Some Organic Ingredients

This category is worth mentioning because organic grapes may be included. However, this will be less than 70% with more than 30% non-organic agriculturally produced ingredients allowed. The label needs to identify the organic ingredient with percentage when indicated on the label. There will be no USDA or certifying label.

What's the Bad Rap on Sulfites?

One of the hurdles to make organic wine seems to be sulfites. Wines with more than 10 ppm of sulfite must bear the label, "Contains Sulfites." And while the label connotes a warning, the fact is sulfites happen and the chemical actually occurs naturally during fermentation, primarily coming from the skins. Sulfites are nothing new and have been used as a food preservative for decades, often with fruit and vegetables. Winemakers have been adding small amounts to prevent oxidation and spoilage which is particularly helpful for aging wines. But sulfites have been used as a scapegoat for many wine drinkers as the source of headaches or cause of allergic reactions. And while there are a small number of people who may have sulfite allergies, sulfites are not responsible for the headaches. Actually, sulfites are helpful in producing stalwart wines that age well. Unfortunately, it is one ingredient the organic certification police watch with a careful eye. Adding sulfites automatically invalidates any organic claim.

USDA & Other Regulating Organizations—Who's in Charge Here?

In the United States, the USDA is not the sole governing body to oversee and monitor the organic laws of the country. They are in charge, but other agencies get to grab a piece of the pie. This doesn’t help make it easy for the winemaker to get that organic label on their wines. First, a USDA-accredited certifying agent must verify a producer's claim regarding organic wine. Second, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (ATF), is responsible for wine labeling and the government agency will review the organic status application for compliance. The ATF becomes the enforcer to ensure that organic producers do not misrepresent the wine's ingredients. And remember, the ATF has guns. Consequently, some wineries have determined the effort was not worth the effort and expense to get the certified organic label on their wines.

France Leads the Way in their Fashion

If the organic wine certification process is convoluted and confounding to vintners and consumers in the U.S., the world's largest wine producing country, France, is equally up to the task. And while they are one of the leading organic wine producing countries, they also have three governmental agencies doing the certification: Ecocert, Terre et Vie and Nature et Progrés. France is always France and as French government agencies go, these work against each other as well as any others to not promote their raison-d'etre. Regardless of the definition, the French are leading the way for so-called organically produced wines in the world.

Is It Worth It?

Debatable with no universal consensus. Producers have struggled to make wines with character and depth. Reducing the sulfites to practically nil can handicap many wines from developing a rich and profound personality. But many producers are improving techniques and their winemaking processes and turning out excellent and flavorful wines. And, similar to other food products, the supply and demand for organic wine is growing worldwide. As you would expect, the largest percentage of organic wine in the U.S. is coming from California, particularly from Mendocino. Around the world, organic wine is taking hold in France, Spain, Italy, Argentina, Chile, [[Australian Wine|Australia], and New Zealand and the trend should continue. Interesting point in the growth of organic wines: many winemakers are not making a concerted effort to get their wine labeled as such. One reason may be the certification process pain. Another issue may not be organic grape production, but rather in the winemaking. Many of the processes such as fining, filtration, and handling still have issues in need of qualification and regulation. Then again, the term, organic, may carry a negative stigma in marketing that wineries want to avoid. As consumer demands grow that should turn to a positive.