Opus One

Opus One—Old School France meets Old School Napa

The label of this high-profile wine from Napa is distinctive and symbolic in design. There is a casually scribbled blue silhouette profile of a two-faced head, each facing in opposite directions, perhaps connoting a look back to their respective origins. Look closer and the profile images of two of the modern wine world's more preeminent figures emerge, Napa Valley's Robert Mondavi and Bordeaux's Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Mondavi's, with his prominent forehead and pugilistic nose, is turned to the left, and perhaps pointing deferentially to the west. Melded at the back of his head, the aquiline nosed Philippe de Rothschild head faces to the right, or if it were acting as a compass, to the east toward France. Perhaps symbolically representing a meeting of the minds and a unification of objective? And who are these two iconic characters anyway?

Baron Philippe Rothschild was the passionate mover, shaker, and visionary of Chateau Mouton Rothschild, the historic Bordeaux Château where the Baron had taken charge in 1923 and elevated it to 1st Growth status by the time of his death in 1988. Robert Mondavi? He has been the visionary catalyst and grand marketeer of Napa Valley and California wine for decades. Praised or vilified, it would be fair to say that the quality and variety of wine on the retailer's shelves might be less than what it is today if not for the two's influence. The two stalwart wine leaders met in early 1970, came together in 1979, brainstormed, and decided to create a joint venture entity combining the traditions and methods of Old World French winemaking with the New World vigor of Napa Valley. The result was the creation of the Opus One Winery.

Opus Buzz Power

The announcement in 1980 of this 50-50 Bordeaux-Napa joint venture was remarkable in many aspects and created a stir in the wine industry. Most significant was the declaration the joint venture was making. In one statement, one of the most successful and important figures in the French wine industry was acknowledging that Napa Valley not only existed but was making wine of world-class caliber and not the plonk as traditionally sniffed by the French as they looked down their Gallic noses.

Most industry experts were skeptical as well that Mondavi and Baron Rothschild could pull this off; too many egos, too many differences, too much ambition, and too much Franco-American intrigue was involved. Well, so much for skeptics and Chicken Littles. A case of the first vintage of 1979 was sold sight-unseen, sip-untasted at the 1981 Napa Valley Wine Auction for $24,000. Even more outrageous, the 1979 and 1980 vintages were selling for $50 in the marketplace that was accustomed to $15-$20 for a Napa Valley Cabernet. The first several vintages generally received at best, lackluster reviews, especially when weighted to the bottle price. Regardless of the mitigating reviews and price, the buzz and the Mondavi-Rothschild pedigree behind Opus One added cachet and slow, but upwardly moving, sales. Disappointing at first, the 1985 vintage started hitting its mark and Opus One started garnering justified accolades, increasing its presence in high-end restaurants and becoming a staple among collectors.

Opus One Winery

The Opus One winery, like Rome, was not built in a day. In fact it took several years following the start of the joint venture to acquire the vineyards and find the plot of land where they could build their leading-edge winery facility. Prior to that, Opus One was made at Mondavi. But it was deemed necessary to have a separate facility and the new one was located in the Oakville appellation just east of Highway 29 and west of the Napa River that cuts through the valley. The unusual sunken winery was designed by the same architectural firm that made San Francisco's Transamerica building. It is not the typical winery barn, having more of high-security bunker look that is surrounded by grassy knolls. There were setbacks and technical problems that ensued from the location design, flooding, and moisture that plagued the winery and bumped up the investment cost beyond the initial budgetary estimates. But the show must go on, and in 1991 the high-priced boutique winery began operation. Tours are free but tastings are by appointment only and there is a fee of $25, so the serious only need apply.

Opus One Style

Opus One generally follows a Bordeaux-style melange of the usual suspects, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Each vintage doesn't necessarily use all varietals when blended, sometimes Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Merlot or Cabernet France. However, Cabernet Sauvignon dominates, big time. Opus One is not a Pomerol. However, don't expect a true Bordeaux when drinking Opus One. Anticipate bigger California Cab fruit that is ripe and sweet but is held in check by French tension. This best of California-French style creates a lovely Cabernet with finesse and depth that will age for years.

Candidly Speaking

Great as Opus One can be, it sometimes fails to reach its expected heights. Basically, there are good years and average years. As well reported in the media, Mondavi's empire in the late 1990s stepped into, politely speaking, difficulties. Opus One suffered up and down vintages that affected its reputation somewhat. Competition from other cult wines, including the Mondavi Reserve Cab, impinged upon Opus One's position a tad. Vintage quality notwithstanding, Opus One still remains one of Napa Valley's high-profile wines.

Baroness Philippine de Rothschild Continues

The Baron passed away in 1988 at the age of 86. His only child, Philippine de Rothschild, assumed leadership as Chairman of Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA and continues steering the direction of the French company's wine business that also includes her commitment to Opus One and developing New World wines.

Mondavi Undone! Just another Star in the Constellation

Proof that nothing is forever, Robert Mondavi Winery was acquired by Constellation Brands, a global beverage conglomerate. The acquisition cut the Mondavi family's involvement in their namesake business. No longer would Robert and his sons Micheal and Tim make wine at their winery. This acquisition also included Mondavi's 50 percent partnership in Opus One and the joint venture with Rothschild.

How Does Opus One Fit in the Picture

The crystal ball foretelling Opus One's future is still cloudy but with some positive indicators. First, the Baroness Philippine has publicly stated her commitment to Opus One, at least for the time being. Constellation has also affirmed its interest to continue as part of the joint venture. Logically, there may be a sharper separation from the Robert Mondavi Winery. In the past, Opus One has taken advantage of Mondavi resources that included grapes, winemakers, and marketing. In the future Opus One will stand on its own identity and resources. This should also help resolve the conflict that arose from Mondavi's Reserve Cabernet that competed with Opus One. Remember, change can be good and at this point it's best to be optimistic.