Merlot

Merlot was a rising wine star for many producers. The varietal was relatively easy to grow in many regions, ripened early although unevenly at times, and in general was softer, plusher, and less tannic than its highbrow Bordeaux blending partner, Cabernet Sauvignon. Producers also appreciate Merlot's earlier ripening. Finishing one or two weeks earlier than Cab helps growers get the harvest in before the autumn rains arrive.

Merlot developed an awkward wimpy image, perhaps too wimpy for some. Many savvy wine consumers were disappointed as well, turning their nose away rather than up, and shifting from the insipid and character deficient red wine to other better realized wines. Oh, and did that movie damage Merlot's reputation, too? No doubt, but so what? Remember the children's rhyme, "Sticks and stones can break my bones but words can never hurt me?" Well, Merlot sales, along with the saintly Pinot Noirs, took a noticeable bump to the north even as Merlot's reputation took a hit. But after a glut on the marketplace, and a weeding out of the lesser Merlots, consumers are beginning to judge the soft red wine and are appreciating the well-made versions on their own merits. Besides, it's difficult to argue with success. Merlot's rounder and softer soul has drawn many new wine drinkers away from the Chardonnays and the White Zinfandels and over to the dark side of red wine. And is that such a bad thing?

With Merlot, Less May Be More

The thin-skinned dark berry blue grape or little blackbird, as it is referred to in France, shares similar flavors and aromas as Cabernet Sauvignon. Typically, there will be dark fruity berry, cherry, and cassis characteristics that may combine with other plum fruit as well as chocolate, herbs, and notes of leather. Where Merlot deviates from Cabernet Sauvignon can be perceived as a difference in style. By nature its tannins lose sturdiness and go turtle when fully ripe, and Merlot wines present themselves as softer and more yielding to simplicity than their more distinguished blending buddy, Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, Merlot doesn't lend itself to aging like Cab, either, and most are ready for consumption on release. There's no need to ponder how long to hold a Merlot in the cellar; it's usually ready to go. And that may be Merlot wine's broad appeal, its simplified structure that carries traces of deeper character notes. And while U.S. wine drinkers have embraced the standalone Merlot, contrarily, the majority of the world uses Merlot merely as a simple grape that lends itself elegantly to blending with other varietals rather than flying solo.

Bordeaux, Where Merlot Shines

Bordeaux would be nothing without Merlot; it's the primary grape in the Right Bank's St.-Emilion and Pomerol and overall, is double the acreage of Cabernet Sauvignon throughout the Bordeaux region. In the Medoc and Graves regions and other lesser Bordeaux regions, Merlot is just one of other grapes blended into the traditional Bordeaux formula with Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and of course the primary grape of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is necessary to flesh out Cabernet's sturdy structure, to bring it down to earth. In Pomerol and St. Emilion, Merlot stands alone and uniquely expresses itself. Probably the most famous and sought-after Merlot is from Pomerol's Chateau Pètrus, with its legendary and jammy-velvet wines that age forever, are hard to obtain, and involve large volumes of money to own. While many rave about Pètrus' opulent and complex wines, others might choose another Pomerol, Château Le Pin, if given the choice. But alas, most are never given the chance to choose one or the other.

Merlot, California Style--and Let's Not Forget Washington

In the United States, California and Washington lead the pack in producing Merlot. Merlot has grown in its planting in these two states since the 1970s. And while initially used as a blending grape with Cabernet Sauvignon and the Bordeaux-style Meritage blends, producers began toying with it as a single varietal. Some have been successful, but there are many disappointments to be found as well. Often, in a reverse paradox, small bits of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc are blended to toughen up Merlot's structure. Duckhorn Vineyards and Pride Mountain Vineyards are two noteworthy Merlot producers from California. In Washington, Merlot stands second to no other state. The best places commanding attention are wines from Columbia Valley and Walla Walla. A good place to start might be at Gary Figgins' Leonetti Cellars or Northstar Winery with Merlots showing balance, flavorful fruit, and finesse.

Other-Worldly Merlots

Merlot is grown extensively around the wine globe, although the majority is used as usual to round and soften other wines. Italy is a major producer, where it is used both as part of blended concoctions or as a single varietal. The best ones will come from the Tre-Venezia regions. In Australia, Merlot is used as the better half to reduce a Cabernet Sauvignon's stern nature. There are some unblended versions, with the better ones found in Barossa Valley and the McLaren Vale, much like Shiraz. And gee, what a surprise, Merlots are starting to pop up out of Chile and Argentina.

Food Pairings

As you might expect, the easy Merlot style leans to less acidity than Cabernet Sauvignon, giving it a higher lushness factor. Acidity is always one factor to consider when pairing food with wine but there are no hard and set rules when putting food together with wine. Perhaps not always the best match with food, Merlot works with soft/hard cheese, pastas, roast chicken, grilled/roasted meats, vegetarian dishes, casseroles, and salads.

Upside Down and Sideways

Remember that whining Miles fellow from Sideways? While he may have slammed Merlot throughout the movie, toward the end of the flick, the sad-eyed Miles drank his most-prized wine in a styrofoam cup, a 1961 Cheval Blanc...A St. Emilion with Cabernet Franc (66%) blended with Merlot (33%) and a bit of Malbec. Hypocrisy was always one of Miles' best attributes.

Top Regional Producers

France

• Château Pètrus
• Château Le Pin
• Château Cheval Blanc

California

• Pride Mountain Vineyards
• Chateau St. Jean
• Duckhorn Vineyards
• Beringer
• Pahlmeyer
• Shafer Vineyards

Washington

• Chateau Ste. Michelle
• Covey Run
• Leonetti Cellars
• Northstar Winery