Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon Breede River
Valley 2004 Reviews

Once upon a time, when I wanted a supple and food-friendly Cabernet Sauvignon that was a good value, I avoided California and went south to grab a good Cab from Chile. You could find a round, fruit-forward, powerful, and easy-drinking Cab with some semblance of profundity that cost less than ten bucks. Then, others discovered these Cabs, demand grew, and prices climbed. Granted, overall quality improved as well, but that eight-buck Cab somehow loses its allure when it costs fifteen buckaroos. Enter South Africa.

Since the long overdue end to small-minded and inhumane apartheid, exports of South African wines have expanded and these excellent value wines are starting to take up slots in wine retailers shelves. There’s not much to set this Excelsior apart from many other good Cabs, except it only cost eight bucks. But, that’s an excellent value if you want a smooth, fruit-forward Cab that both experienced and neophyte wine drinkers can enjoy for what it is. Easy to drink, the 2004 version from Excelsior shows a well-managed nose with ripe fruit aromas of plums and currants with vanilla oak essences. These aromas follow through in the mouth and are balanced with sound tannins and a caramel lubricating the finish that comes and goes as a quick shadow.

There’s not a lot to delve into here, it’s a one-dimensional Cab that won’t stand out in a crowd, but it can be appreciated for its price performance value ratio. Don’t bother to cellar this Excelsior; drink it now, time is not on its side.

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