Cognac

Modern Draw

Nowadays, the popularity of brandy and Cognac has reached high levels. If you see music videos of pop and rap stars, inevitably you’ll see bottles of brandy on the table, and even perhaps heard them mentioned by name. It’s not the drink of the older generation anymore.

Cognac Defined

The question is, what exactly is a brandy, Cognac, and others like them? The simple answer is that they are all distilled spirits, usually from wine. The distillation process gives them a higher alcohol level, usually between 40-60 percent. That’s the simple answer…there is much more to it than that, however.

Cognac is a brandy — but more accurately put, it’s a brandy made in the Cognac region of France. Remember, the French wine/alcohol system is primarily based on place (location) rather than what is in the bottle. So, for example, when you buy a red Burgundy, you are buying a Pinot Noir…it’s how the whole system works. So, the detailed explanation of what Cognac is: a double-distilled brandy made from grapes from the west-central region called Charente-Maritime. There are other regions as well — such as Armagnac — that also produce brandies. So, just like Burgundy, Champagne, Bordeaux, etc., the grapes that go into those products must be from those areas. Those are the rules.

Rules and Regulations

When you talk of wines and spirits from France, there has to be an understanding of exactly what this means as far as rules and regulations go. The French wine-growing and winemaking rules and regulations are not only strict, but very detailed as well. They cover everything from what is and is not allowed in the vineyard and what grapes can be grown in what areas, to the size of the kettles brandy can be distilled in and when those grapes have to be harvested. These tightly controlled production laws may be strict, but it ensures a consistent product and end-result. For example, if you buy a Cognac, you always know what you’re getting.

How it is Made

The process of making Cognac starts with the wine. The wine is distilled (which by law has to happen by March 31 of the next year after harvest) and you are left with the fresh spirit (called eau-de-vie…literally translated to “water of life.”) This is then transferred to French oak barrels that hold from 75 to 125 gallons for maturation. It is then left to age in caves that have consistent temperatures and humidity levels for at least two years, but many leave them for longer (which translates to higher prices). It is generally understood that the gradual development of the spirit into Cognac is dependent on the interaction of the raw spirit with the wood (oils, acids, etc.) This process gives us that beautiful golden amber color that we’ve come to expect. Many times, different producers in Cognac will not only barrel age the sprit for a prolonged period of time, but many will also bottle age them as well for a more refined and complex product at the end. This also translates into higher priced Cognacs.

Classification System Explained

I get the question all the time about the classification levels that are listed on bottles of Cognac and other brandies. Here is a breakdown:

• Cognac VS—means Very Special and has a 2-year minimum in barrels.
• Cognac VSOP—means Very Superior Old Pale and 4-year minimum in barrels.
• Cognac XO (sometimes called Napoleon)—means Extra Old and 6 years in barrels.
• Vintage Cognac—all the grapes are from that harvest year.

Stand-alone Beverage

Cognac is generally considered to be an after-dinner drink. Depending on the quality and producer of the Cognac you buy, you can pay anywhere from $50-$1000+ for good ones. So obviously, enjoy every minute of the tasting experience to get your money’s worth! I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying a few different Cognacs that I recommend. Although a cigar does go nicely with Cognac, it can mask some of the nuances and complexity that it has to offer, so if you’re new to the brandy thing, hold off on the cigar until you’ve enjoyed a few sips of this beauty.

Recommendations

Hennessy and Remy-Martin are the most popular selling brands in the United States. Their higher levels of Cognac are quite good, but be prepared to shell out some cash for these brands. Some favorites of mine are actually less mass-marketed, but quite excellent! These include Daniel Bouju Fines Saveurs (about $40) and Raymond Dudognon Vielles Reserve (about $70). There are other much pricier brands, but these are a good start. Enjoy yourself, try new brands and smaller producers that you may not have heard of. Thankfully, since it is a spirit, you don’t have to drink the whole thing shortly after opening! These guys last for a long time, so enjoy it for special moments and on relaxing evenings. Cheers!

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