Cakebread

One of Napa's Greats

If you ask anyone about the Napa Valley “greats,” Cakebread is sure to be at the top. As a matter of fact, their Vinehill selection is one my all-time favorites.

Purchasing the Property

In the early 1970s Jack Cakebread came to Napa Valley, as the story goes, to photograph its beauty. He fell in love with the place, and reportedly received a phone call from a friend who was selling property in the area and he immediately took it up. Although romanticized I’m sure, the story is a familiar one for the people who moved to Napa and bought property: they came, they saw, they purchased. Even back in those days it was not cheap to purchase vineyard property.

Wines-Then and Now

Their first vintage--157 cases of 1973 Chardonnay--was sold to Phil Faight of Groezinger's Wine Shop in Yountville. The production was so small and the winery such a newcomer that they (the Cakebreads) only sold locally to this very famous wine shop in the area.

It was so early in the “wine tasting” era that Jack remembers the small amount of traffic on the Highway 129—two or three cars an hour. Now it’s more like two or three cars a second. Now they produce not only Chardonnay, but Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir as well.

Winemaking Scrutiny

The harvest procedure for Cakebread is one of constant attention to detail. They actually have plans laid out for each block of the vineyard—when to harvest, sample, etc. It’s a big undertaking. A "game plan" includes how to press (de-stem or whole-cluster), fermentation instructions and which barrels to use (different oak and toast)--all based on data from previous vintages and reflecting the current growing season. It is a true blending of old world practices and the use of new world technology that you see many wineries adopting.

Visiting

While visiting Napa Valley, I recommend visiting Cakebread, but you just can’t drop in. Because of its popularity and traffic, the tasting room is only open by appointment. They don’t just offer tastings, you can also ask to do a tour; and for those of you who are really into wine and want to know everything about it, you can book an appointment to do an educational tour. On top of that, Cakebread also offers a food and wine pairing, which is terrific. There are many choices, just be sure to call ahead of time (not the same day, either) and get your reservation in.

Tasting the Wine

During my visit, I did a limited wine tasting (two wines) because I was on a tight schedule. The folks who did the tour thoroughly enjoyed it, and recommended I do that next time I was there. My wine flights were wonderful, although they were not officially pouring the reserve wines, they had some "hidden" behind the counter for those people who knew about the high-end cabernets that they produce. Be sure to ask for some when you’re there! But leave the wallet in the car, it will cost you $100 a pop for their high end Cabs, so it’s a splurge (and they sure are good!)

My Tastings

• 2002 Benchland Select

This baby is big! It’s bursting with gobs of fresh blackberry, licorice, coffee and mocha. The tannins are strong, but not as bad as I thought for a young Cab. The finish on the wine was incredible; I couldn’t stop tasting it minutes after the sip was done. The word “yummy” comes to mind.

• 2005 Napa Valley Chardonnay

This wine is classic apple! It is forward, ripe Granny Smith apple and pear fruit accented by warm oak spice tones. Full and lush on the palate, it actually finishes strong on the tannin and wood side, telling me that this wine needs a couple of years to come around to release what it has in store.