Best Champagne Under $25

"I Get No Kick From Champagne…" Anything Goes, Cole Porter

Cole, Cole, what's the problem? As far as I'm concerned, Champagne gives me a kick and Sparkling Wine tickles my fancy on any occasion. And personally, I don't even need a wedding or a New Year's Eve celebration to uncork a bottle of bubbly. In fact, Champagne, or sparkling wine if that pleases you, can put a bounce and swagger in your step on any humdrum day. I get a smile on my face and twinkle in my eye whenever I hear that unmistakable, Pop followed by the bursting air bubbles as the euphoric liquid is poured into a flute. So Cole, get with the program and let's start looking for a good bottle of bubbly for less than $25.

Learn the best shape glass for Champagne.

Only Nonvintage and Méthode Champenoise Will Do

A couple of points to use as guidelines to pick your Champagne. First, it will be improbable to find vintage Champagne for less than $25. Champagne in this case refers to the bubbly liquid from the French appellation, otherwise we will use the sparkling wine term. And vintage won't apply unless you double or triple your ante for a bottle. The second point is to avoid any of the Charmant made spar, it's the faster, lower-cost method for making sparkling wine and most of the time will be discouraging rather than encouraging. The Méthode Champenoise is the traditional production method as accomplished in the French Champagne region and, while more labor intensive and expensive, produces the better effervescent sparkle and structure.

Bubbles Flow in France, United States, Italy, and Spain

As a general rule, one will have look under a few rocks to find a French Champagne less than $25, but it is not an impossible task; just don't expect a Dom Perignon. The best choices for Champagne less than $25 will be sparklers from California or Washington, Proseccos from Italy, Cavas from Spain, and even some of the Crémants from various French appellations. Choices will not necessarily be limited to a particular style either, one can still find their favorite Brut, Blanc de Blanc, or Rosé and still have a festive time.

France

This is a tough category to crack for true sparkers from Champagne. However, good deals can pop up when you least expect it. The toughest deals to find are from the grande marques. These are the big boys like Taittinger, Mumm, Moët-Chandon, Laurent-Perrier, Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin, or Piper-Heidsieck, but sometimes they may surprise you, just keep your eye out and grab a special when you pick up the right rock. Then there are the cooperatives like Nicholas Feuillate that sometimes may sneak in under the wire. The ones that offer the best hope are in the grower-producer variety, the family cellar that grows, produces, and sells its own Champagne. The problem is the limited volume and distribution for these grower-producers, but look for a direct export to a wine retailer and you're in business. The alternative if you want to do French is to look to the Crémants from other appellations that still use Méthode Champenoise. Try Crémant D'Alsace, Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant de Loire, or Crémant de Limoux for good values that, although they do not have the depth of structure or character of a Champagne, still deliver a sparkling party in a bottle.

French Bubbles

• Henri Abelé, Champagne.

Brut Champagne, NV. Abelé puts out a lively and zingy Brut that is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir. Crisp, floral, and finishes with creamy dough. Price: $25.

• Piper-Heidsieck, Champagne.

Brut Champagne, NV. This nonvintage Brut is made from Pinto Meunier and Pinot Noir. It's a well-balanced and a rounded Champagne with loads of citrus, flint, spice, and satisfying toast. Tight and steady stream of bubbles and good acidity and satisfying toasty finish. SRP is about $35 but Piper-Heidsieck has abundant distribution and this one can be found for less than $25. Ooh-la-la.

• Tarlant, Champagne.

Brut Reserve Champagne, NV. Tarlant is a small grower-producer that blends their Reserve evenly divided between Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay of three different vintages from 2001, 2002, and 2003. Has a lovely bouquet of apples and pears and a bright cream mouth. Elegant. Price: $25.

• Lucien Albrecht, Crémant D'Alsace.

Brut, NV. Lucien Albrecht is located in Alsace near Colmar. This Crémant is made 100 percent from Pinot Blanc is rich with floral aromas, fruit, and tickling bubbles. Elegant. Price: $20.

• Saint-Hilare, Blanquette de Limoux.

Blanc de Blancs, NV. This one will surprise you. The sparkling wine has been made for centuries in a Benedictine Abbey (Saint-Hilare) in the hills of Limoux, a small and interesting appellation south of Carcassonne close to the border with Spain. The Blanc de Blancs is primarily made of Mauzac with Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Apple crisp with a gentle, floral, creamy, and fizzy body. $10.

USA

Now we're talking. There are many, many options for excellent bubbly under $25 coming out of California and Washington. Many people believe that sparklers from these two states don't measure up to the gold standard set in Champagne. Don't work up a lather over this; while flavors may be slightly different, style and production methods are essentially the same as in Champagne. What California and Washington miss in their sparklers is that trademark Champagne biscuity-yeasty-doughy character. C'est la vie, just chalk up the variations to a difference in terroir, notably the unique chalky soil in the Champagne region that is tough to duplicate. It's best to just get over it and move on. And just remember, many of the foreign Champagne houses from France own and operate the sparkling wine cellars in Napa, Sonoma, and California. There must be something worthwhile going on. One bit of advice is to stick with the producers that focus strictly on sparkling wine.

California and Washington Bubbles

• Domaine Carneros, Napa Valley, California.

Brut Cuvèe, 2002. Domaine Carneros is owned by Rheim's Taittinger. Their Brut is worthy of their Taittinger heritage. The 2002 Brut is sparkles with pear and apple crispness, a touch of hazelnuts, and closes with fresh dough and French finesse. The Domaine Carneros' Château is perched on a hill overlooking appellation and makes a great place to stop on a wine tour either to Sonoma or Napa Valleys. Price: $25.

• Domaine Chandon, Napa Valley, California.

Reserve Brut NV, Brut Classic NV, Blanc de Noirs NV, Domaine Chandon is another French-owned Sparkling Wine cellar and good job if you guessed Moët-Chandon. They produce consistent quality and tasty sparklers at a good price. The Reserve Brut can be found at less than $25 and the Brut Classic and Blanc de Noirs can often be found in the $15-18 price range. The Blanc de Noirs is a gorgeous salmon-pink and is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. It vibrates with cherries and strawberries and has a delicate creamy denouement. Prices: $15-$25.

• Domaine Ste.-Michelle, Columbia Valley, Washington.

Brut Classic Cuvèe NV, Blanc de Noir NV, Blanc de Blancs NV. The best thing about Domaine Ste.-Michelle is the sparkling wine mileage one gets from $10-$12. Produced in the Mèthode Champenoise way, Domaine Ste. Michelle's sparklers are consistent, pleasing, and very affordable. Price: $10-$12.

• Gloria Ferrer, Carneros, California.

Sonoma Brut NV, Blanc de Noirs NV. Gloria Ferrer is part of Catalan's expansive Freixenet Group. It's got the worldwide clout of the Freixenet family to give them financial, technological, and distribution advantages. Gloria Ferrer is located in the Carneros region wedged at the entrance of Napa and Sonoma valleys. The Sonoma Brut is made from Pinot Noir, 87 percent and Chardonnay, 13 percent. It's a lively treat with pear-apple-citrus brightness, almonds, creamy toast, and effervescent. The Blanc de Noirs is also a winner, with a touch more of Pinot Noir than the Brut. The result is a more delicate balance of strawberries and black cherries with citrus and bouncy bubbles in the creamy finish. Has a lovely and feminine copper color for a tad of elegance. Price: $20.

• J Wine Company, Russian River Valley, California.

Brut, 2000. J Wine is located in Healdsburg, California, and the winery makes very good still wines but a perky and suave sparkling Brut. Tangerine citrus marks this vintage as well as a creamy texture and a party of bubbles. Price: $23.

• Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley, California.

Anderson Valley Brut NV, Brut Rosè NV. Either Roederer's Brut or the Brut Rosè is my never-fails-me, no-doubt-about-it choice for a sparkling wine less than $25. Roederer Estate is located up in Mendocino County's cool and oft-foggy Anderson Valley where conditions are not that different than France's Champagne. In Fact, one of Champagne's premier cellars, Louis Roederer is the owner and as much as any other California sparkler, Roederer Estate's most closely resemble Champagne's heritage and character. Both the Anderson Valley Brut and the Brut Rosè win me over every time. Prices are usually listed higher than $25 but I've found them at prices as low as $16 for the Brut. Price: $22-$25.

Spain's Cava and Italy's Prosecco

We can't leave the Champagne category without brief mention of the Cava from Spain's Penedès region and Italy's bubbly Prosecco. Both Cava and Prosecco have similarities to Champagne but generally don't rise to a good Champagne's heights, then again, few do. But they offer an excellent value with racy quality for a cancion or a canzone. To be Cava. the sparkling wines by Spanish law must be made in the traditional French way. Look for Cavas from Freixenet, Cordiníu, Cristalino, and Segura Viudas. If you feel Italian try Prosecco. They are made with the Charmant method and they can be fizzy fun in a pinch. Check out Santa Margherita or Folonari. Prices are all over the place but a Cordon Negro from Freixenet can be found for around $10, the same follows for Prosecco. Personally though, I say, "Go Cava." ¡Salud!

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